There are those who love tourism and there are those who love travel…

In a time where the majority of the world is stuck at home, I thought this could be an ideal moment to publish my first travel related post.  Even though we can’t travel at the moment, we can still explore digitally.  And honestly, there’s never a wrong moment to start planning your next trip! 

If you’ve read my Pasta With Italian Tuna Post you know that my family lived in North Africa for many, many years.  It is a part of the world that I adore and am excited to share with you!  It seems appropriate that my first “Not Your Typical Tourist Hit List” starts in Marrakech, Morocco’s beloved Red City.

A Brief Intro To Traveling With Dave

Planning a trip or exploring a new destination can be overwhelming – especially when you’re exploring heavily traveled cities like Paris, Marrakech or London.  So many choices, so many options and so many opinions!  It can be a challenge to find information on local spots beyond the likes of TripAdvisor. 

Don’t get me wrong, TripAdvisor and similar sites can be powerful planning tools to sift through hotel choices and car transfer services.  But, when it comes to restaurants, bars and even places to shop, I’ve noticed places that are highly rated have done a fantastic job of catering to tourists.  In the restaurant space, this means things like Western food options, English speaking staff and spice levels in regional dishes that have been toned down to suit the Western palette.  Despite hours of research, I always seem to have a hard time finding recommendations that are slightly more authentic.

After a series of disappointing experiences at “top rated” establishments in Tulum, I decided I would start writing city guides that are light, easy to read, with honest reviews of places I’ve been and loved.  My goal in creating these guides is to provide you with a short hit list of interesting recommendations that offer something unique, tried and true or just plain fabulous.

There’s nothing wrong with enjoying vacation as a tourist.  Everyone needs those moments to decompress at a beach resort with cocktail in hand (I see you Turks & Caicos).  But, there is something spectacular about truly traveling: stepping out of your comfort zone and embracing what a city has to offer outside the walls of your hotel… and well, outside that #1 rated restaurant on TripAdvisor.

Marrakech:  A Journey Into Morocco’s Red City

As the plane descends into Marrakech, you’ll be greeted by the city’s beautiful red hue and the Atlas mountains towering in the distance.  You’re about to land in a city jam packed with history, rich culture, shopping and of course FOOD.  It is difficult to not be overtaken by the sights, sounds and smells of Marrakech.  Is that an actual snake charmer?  Why, yes it is! 

The city is loud and chaotic but can also serve as the ultimate oasis for relaxation.  If you didn’t plan in advance, it can be an obstacle to navigate where to shop and eat without vendors pulling you toward their shops and into their food stalls.  Here is a bit of information and a few favorites to help you plan ahead and dive directly into a wonderful trip.

Restaurants

Marrakech is a city where it can be hard to get away from tourism, especially in the restaurant world.  Traditionally, most Moroccans eat at home with their families and as such, some of the best food in Morocco may actually be in someone’s home kitchen.  Because not everyone has access to a Moroccan family to dine with, most of the visiting world is left to dine in one of the cities many restaurants.  The restaurants, particularly those serving Moroccan fare, are largely targeted at tourists.  This means English menus, high prices considering the cost of goods and labor, and Moroccan music that has been turned way down and replaced with something less… invasive?

With that said, the tourist powered restaurant scene in Marrakech is vibrant.  There are some really wonderful restaurants that are elevating Moroccan cuisine or doing traditional Moroccan food exceptionally well.  Here are two of those spots.

L’Mida

This restaurant has been on my list for a while as I’ve been a long time follower of Nargisse Benkabbou, from MyMoroccanFood.com

Food writer, recipe creator, blogger and now restaurateur, Nargisse has recently opened a stunningly beautiful, female empowered restaurant in the medina.  Not only does the restaurant feature one of the most lovely rooftop patios in the city, the food is affordable, light and creative.  The most expensive item on the menu is about $14 USD.

The restaurant is quickly gaining popularity so make a reservation in advance, request patio seating and be on time!  There’s nothing better than running through the small crowded streets of the medina in a freshly pressed outfit trying your best to avoid being run over by a donkey in an effort to make sure your table isn’t given away.  Ok, so maybe it wasn’t exactly the most ideal way to start the evening.

Upon arrival the staff was accommodating, attentive and so friendly – even after we were late!  The only caveat, there is no alcohol. But, the menu offers plenty of juices and mocktails to cool you off after a day in the Moroccan sun.  If you’re worried, have an aperitif (or three) at your riad before heading out.  Problem solved! 

L’Mida is an ideal spot to watch the sunset or hear the evening call to prayer echo across the city.  

Can’t make it to Morocco anytime soon?  You can get her cookbook, Casablanca, and bring the flavors of Morocco to your home kitchen.

Le Trou Au Mur

I love restaurants that really specialize in one dish, especially in a city where every restaurant seems to serve every Moroccan classic.

Translated to Hole In The Wall this restaurant is anything but.  Yes, it may be a challenge to find in the dizzying streets of the medina, but once you arrive the restaurant is modern and sleek.  The dining room is beautiful, well designed and packed with interesting artwork… but empty?  Head up one additional flight of stairs to join the crowd on the charming terrace.   While it doesn’t offer the same unobstructed sweeping views of the city as L’Mida, it still offers a lovely al fresco dining experience.

Start your meal with Mezze, an assortment of traditional Moroccan salads specifically designed to wet your appetite.  You’ll find Moroccan salad courses at every restaurant in Marrakech (think carrot salads, beet salads, tomato and pepper salads) but Le Trou Au Mur wins the award for most creative presentation.

While perusing the menu, your eyes will likely gravitate toward the menu feature, Mechoui.  And rightfully so!  This is a specialty of the house as the restaurant has a traditional clay Mechoui oven in which it prepares this classic lamb dish.  Select your cut of leg, shoulder, saddle or a tasting of all three (yes, please!).  The lamb is slow roasted until it is melt in your mouth tender, yet maintains a caramelized almost crispy exterior.  In terms of Moroccan lamb dishes, I’m usually partial to Lamb Tagine with Prunes, but Mechoui from Le Trou Au Mur may be the new favorite. If you’re planning to try Mechoui while you’re in Morocco – this is the spot.

The wine list of also one of the more extensive Moroccan centric wine lists I came across during my time in Marrakech.

Kosy Bar

Alcohol is forbidden for Muslims.  As such, the majority of the local population doesn’t drink.  With that said, Morocco is a tolerant country so you’ll find hotels, riads and most restaurants stocked with alcohol to serve to their thirsty visiting patrons.  There certainly are a number of clubs offering overpriced drinks and mediocre food. If you’re looking to get dressed up and hit the scene, by all means – get after it. There’s a time and place for everything.

But, if you’re looking for reprieve from the bustle of the city, a casual sunset or a low key after dinner drink, perhaps something like Kosy Bar is a better fit. This bar offers sensational views of the city, the Atlas Mountains and the Badi Palace walls. It is also attached to a fabulous spa. More on that later.

Experience

There are many iconic things to experience in Marrakech including the beautiful Bahia Palace, the lively Jemaa el-Fnaa, the exterior of the Koutoubia Mosque, and the Jardin Majorelle.  While many of these are likely on your must see list, here are two other ways to pass your time.

Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum

As a food enthusiast, I was so excited to see that Marrakech had recently opened a Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum.  Historically, food in Morocco has been an oral tradition and this museum is dedicated to the preservation of the integrity of Moroccan cuisine.

Walk from exhibit to exhibit learning about all the aspects of Moroccan cuisine including traditional salads, crispy bastillas, as well as the food of the Moroccan Jews who settled in Morocco more than 500 years ago.  Each room offers in-depth information on the history of the dish, beautiful photos as well as video content demonstrating how the traditional cuisine is prepared.

The museum itself is stunning and is a true oasis in the middle of the city.  As much as it pains me to say, it is also an opportunity to snap that mandatory Instagram photo away from the crowds – an experience you’ll find more challenging at the museum’s very famous next door neighbor, the Bahia Palace.

The museum also offers cooking classes and has a beautiful rooftop café.  You’ll exit through a small gift shop offering nicely packaged spices, Argan Oil and Verveine Tea. 

The Culinary Arts Museum was a 10/10! Bonus: If you’re interested in doing more than just looking, you can even purchase a ticket that includes a tasting experience as part of the visit. 

Kosy Spa

The hammam is an essential part of daily life in Morocco.  What is a hammam one may ask?  Think cleansing bath with an exfoliating scrub.  There are two types of hammams in Morocco:  Public and private.  Public are just that… public. They are generally less expensive but perhaps more intimidating and less relaxing if you’re new to the hammam experience. Because I was new and looking to truly relax, I opted for a private hammam experience.  There are dozens of private hammams in the city – Kosy Spa is my favorite.

The spa is chic and hidden (almost literally) in the Mellah district. Be prepared to be washed, rubbed with silky black soap, left to steam in a sauna and be scrubbed so hard you’ll be uncertain if you have skin left. The experience is cleansing and leaves your skin feeling as soft as a baby.  You can opt for a massage after the hammam experience if you’d like the extra bit of relaxation. 

Bring an extra pair of underwear (yes, you read that correctly) and lean into the experience of being washed.  While I did manage to get enough black soap in my eye to think I had partially lost my vision, the experience was unique and unforgettable. 

The facilities were clean and well designed.  Definitely, head upstairs to the pool area after your treatment for mint tea, a swim and a jaw droppingly beautiful view of the Atlas Mountains.

Call to book in advance. The front desk is friendly and speaks English.

Shopping

Shopping in Morrocco is one of the great pleasures in life.  The country is famous for its handicrafts and local artisans.  Morocco produces the most wonderful hand woven Berber rugs, leather goods and hammered metal products (think exotic hanging lanterns).  The city offers countless shopping opportunities from its famous Souks to smaller well curated boutiques. 

If you choose to adventure into the Souks, get ready to bargain.  When determining the national sport of Morocco (which is soccer), I can almost guarantee bargaining came in a close second place.  Moroccans are the ultimate masters of negotiation.  Depending on the country you’re from, it may be a totally foreign concept to ask for a lower price.  But, don’t let it intimidate you or stop you from shopping – get in there and negotiate your price! Generally, a good place to start is to offer one-third of the price the vendor is asking.

Before I give you a single shopping suggestion, I must stress:  bring an extra bag!  I use a collapsible Longchamp that fits into my luggage on the way there and snaps out into an extra carry on for the return fight home.  You’ll need the extra space.  Trust me, the shopping is next to none. 

Ensemble Artisinal Marrakech

Before my last trip to Marrakech, I spent a lot of time researching new boutiques that have popped up across the city and how to navigate from location to location to get that perfect jar of artisanally made black soap.  At some point, reality hits when you find yourself negotiating yet another taxi price in French wondering why you’re bargaining so hard to save one US dollar? You get in the car only to realize the back window doesn’t roll down, there’s no air conditioning and the driver is about to light a cigarette in an enclosed space. Cue the Ensemble Artisinale.

A refreshing collective of shops each specialized in one type of product all at fair fixed prices.  You’ll find many of the same items here that you’d find in the souk without the need to search out the perfect color, size and price for that pair of Moroccan babouche (shoes) you can’t live without.  The selection of leather products is good, really good.  Whether you’re looking for wallets, bags, or that leather pouf that looks exactly like the one you’ve been eyeing at CB2 for the last year but haven’t been able to part with the $295 to purchase it – you’ll find it here.  Additionally, you’ll find Moroccan blankets, rugs, hand carved wooden bowls and utensils, Moroccan instruments, tea sets and more! 

Ensemble Artisinale is a quick and easy 10 minute walk from Jemaa el-Fnaa, Marrakech’s main square.  Grab a fresh fruit juice from one of the dozens of vendors in the square and head over to the Ensemble Artisinal for an afternoon is blissful shopping.

Heritage Berbère

Just next to the very famous Jardin Majorelle you’ll find Heritage Berbère, a lovely boutique with its own line of fragrance products – both for men and women.  Whether it is a fragrance, an orange blossom scented shower gel or a high quality rose scented candle, I never walk out of this boutique empty handed. If you don’t find something you love, just wander across the street. It is located just across from 33 Rue Majorelle, an iconic shop specializing in ultra chic higher-end Moroccan made goods.

And, if you do find that new fragrance you really love – there’s an online shop to reorder when you run out. International shipping is definitely available.

The Ultimate Moroccan Accommodation

You don’t need to stay at La Mamounia to experience the best Marrakech has to offer.  Part of discovering Marrakech is staying in one of the city’s countless riads.  Think small boutique hotel with an on-site staff available 24-7 to meet your every need.  As with most things in Marrakech, the city is packed with choices.  Because there are so many beautiful riads in the city location, friendliness of the staff and the quality of the dada (cook) makes all the difference.

Riad Azoulay

Located in the Mellah district, you’ll likely walk through the adjacent spice souk on the way to check into your riad.  Expect a personalized check in, mint tea and information on the surrounding neighborhoods upon arrival.  From the moment you step onto the property, relaxation begins in the riad’s tranquil atmosphere. 

The riad is situated a short walk from the Bahia Palace, Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum and just steps away from the Badi Palace walls.  Taxis can get you within a few minute walk of the riad for those late night post dinner drop offs.  Walk 15 minutes and you’ll be in the center of it all in Jemaa el-Fnaa.

Breakfast is included and is served alongside the dipping pool for a peaceful start to your day.  The upstairs terrace is perfect for having an apéritif and watching the sunset before heading downstairs for a home cooked meal. 

In terms of the food, let me say this: I had the absolute best single bite of my entire trip at Riad Azoulay.  We ordered a trio of Moroccan salads as a snack one afternoon. The artfully displayed trio of salads offered a caramelized fennel salad with sweet golden raisins.  Since it touched my lips, I’ve been on a mission to recreate it at home. Get the recipe for Moroccan Fennel and Golden Raisin Salad!

The only word of caution is that the riad is located next to a mosque so the call to prayer is loud and clear in the early morning hours.  I love the sound of the call to prayer so it was actually the ideal alarm clock.

If you’ve never had the experience of staying in a riad – look no further. 

Experience Morocco At Home

Love this post but can’t get to Marrakech anytime soon? Do not worry! Here are a few iconic Moroccan products to bring just a little piece (or taste!) of Morocco into your home.

Renew Your Skin With An At Home Hammam Treatment

You’ll need Moroccan Black Soap and an Exfoliating Glove. Lather yourself with black soap. Rinse. Exfoliate. Rinse. New skin, new you.

Experience Food From L’Mida

Taste Chef Nargisse Benkabbou’s creations at home with her cookbook, Casablanca.

The Moroccan Kitchen

If you’re going to be working your way through the Casablanca cookbook (or any Moroccan cookbook!), you’ll likely want to try your hand at a tagine.

To get started, you’ll need a tagine! While not totally traditional, I LOVE my Le Creuset Tagine. It makes the most tender and flavorful slow cooked meals. Good for stovetop or oven use. If you’re going for tradition, get a Terra Cotta Tagine. This brand is specifically good for stove top use and eliminates the need for a heat diffuser. Because I’m obsessed with the Moroccan kitchen, I have both.

Savor The Iconic Morocco Flavors In A Sip

Finish your Moroccan feast with a cup of traditional Mint Tea, made with looseleaf gunpowder green tea, fresh mint and sugar. Or, opt for another traditional flavor (my grandmother’s favorite) – Verveine Tea.

Enjoyed reading this post? I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!

Bon Voyage et Bon Appétit!